Promenade dress
Clothes for Women
Inventory number
2018.2.22.19ac.CW.DR.C1866.RUDescription
Walking dress consists of one line buttoned front bodice with narrow sleeves and a skirt worn with crinoline. Grey-green woolen fabric woodblock printed with red, violet, orange and green floral garlands shaded by a red, gray and black ribbon.This kind of fabric called "à disposition" is typical of the Alsatian production of the years 1860-70. The success of its manufactures allowed them to sell their products beyond their borders. In the case of this dress, through the HUBNER haberdashery, established in Moscow since 1839. It should be noted that a painted canvas industry settled and developed in Mulhouse at the end of the 18th century. The success of these "Indiennes", the name of a painted or printed fabric originally made in India and imported through counters, enjoyed a great success in Europe. With the industrial boom, Mulhouse is experiencing a very rapid development of its textile business, namely the proliferation of the number of its manufactures and a significant improvement in their productivity. Initially in the 1780s, the printing by the board allowed to produce two meters of fabric per hour, with the printing with the metal cylinder the production passes from 500 to 600 meters of fabric in one hour. In the case of a fabric available production varies between 100 and 500 meters per hour depending on the difficulty of the pattern.
The dress was used at the Moscow Art Theatre in 1912. Mstislav DOBOUJINSKY used it for his theatre production based on DOSTOIEVSKI‘s novel "The Devils“ staged by Nicolas STAVROGUINE.
The dress was then used for the rehearsals of the Studio School students.
Material
Mulhouse print woolOrigin
circa 1866 Moscow, Russian EmpireExhibitions History
• 1999.10.30 - 2000.2.13 - "Moscovite Memories, 1860-1930", The Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum , Paris, France• 2016.07.13–2016.10.16. ‘Tamed Nature. 18th–21st Century. From Alexandre Vassiliev foundation collection.’ Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, Riga, Latvia.
• 2016.12.01–2017.11.01. ‘Tamed Nature. 18th–21st century. From Alexandre Vassiliev foundation collection.’ Museum of Applied Arts and Design, Vilnius, Lithuania.
• 2018.06.04–2018.12.02. ‘Resort of the fashion from Alexandre Vassiliev foundation collection. Fashion from 18th to 20th century.’ Heydar Aliyev Center, Baku, Azerbaijan.
• 2021.09.17–2021.11.14. ‘To Play To The Gallery. Fashion And Portrait.’ Together with Museum of Art and History, Geneva, Switzerland. Museum of Art and History, Palatine’s room, Geneva, Switzerland.
• 2024.06.22–2024.10.25. ‘Rose – the Manor flower. From the collection of Alexandre Vassiliev foundation.‘ Cultural center-museum of Suvalkija (Sūduva) (Paežeriai Manor), Vilkaviškis district, Lithuania.