House of Lucien Lelong (French, 1921 - 1952)
Camille Joseph LELONG and Éléonore Marie LAMBELET, the parents of Lucien LELONG, were fashion designers whose first shop was established rue Vignon in Paris. In 1898, they moved to 18 place de la Madeleine. Their trade had a certain notoriety and was registered with the young Union Chamber of the Couture (Chambre syndiacal de la Haute Couture), alongside the famous couturiers names as Paquin or Poiret. Lucien LONGONG (1889-1958) creates models but tried, on August 4, 1914, to present his first collection. However, on August 2, he will be mobilized for the First World War. At the end of the war, he took over the activities of the family fashion house. The trade remained open during the war but the crates are empty. The corporate name was changed to "Lelong & Fried" (named after his partner) in 1920. Then in "Maison Lucien Lelong" from 1921. The collections of 1921, 1922 and 1923 received a warm welcome from the press and clients. Among the prominent women, some do not hesitate to pose for her toilet in magazines: Simone de Caillavet, future wife of André Maurois, the Countess of Chabannes, Princess Galitzine (Marina Petrovna of Russia), the dancer Georgia Graves. In 1924, he left the Madeleine district to settle at 16 Avenue Matignon in Paris, and filed the statutes of his perfume company. In 1925, he participated in the Exhibition of Decorative Arts and presented his models in the Pavilion of Elegance on models of Siegel. For the occasion, it creates the silhouette "kinetic", or "kinoptic" and "kinematic", that is to say, a flexible line, modern, dynamic. He was the first to imagine, ten years later, luxury ready-to-wear and thinking about the unity of a production, from clothing to accessories and perfumes, considering fashion as much in its aesthetic dimension, than industrial and commercial. It was the same year he made his first trip to the United States. In 1926, he launched his perfume trio A B C in René Lalique bottles. A year later, he released two new fragrances: J for Jasmin and N for Natalie, named after Natalie Paley, whom he married on August 9, 1927. This union will end in 1937 and the perfume will be renamed by the public "La N "which French phonetically means: Hatred. From 1925 to 1950, he will launch nearly forty fragrances. During these years of marriage, Natalie Paley, who had become a model for her house, will be a great success and will promote the house to a international reputation. He dresses during the 1930s the most beautiful women like actress Marlene Dietrich or Baba Faucigny-Lucinge, former model and famous woman. He shows the most beautiful models including Helene Bigotte, his favorite model since the late 1920s, Sophie (Sophie Vaillant), the future wife of Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet, Lise Lalune, who will become the director of its salons, or the famous Ludmila Feodoseyevna called "Lud". LELONG becomes president of the union chamber of the Paris haute couture in 1937 and until 1947. During the war, he set himself the goal of making Parisian haute couture work, in spite of all the difficulties, in order to save jobs. It is thanks to him if haute couture did not sink during the occupation. However an article in the newspaper Tonight, dated September 22, 1944 and signed Georgette Lavigne, accuses Lelong of being a collaborator. He will be brought before a court and acquitted in 1945. However it will hurt his reputation and his fashion house. For reasons of health, he closed his house in August 1948. Although exhausted, he decided to continue perfumes at No. 6 place Vendôme in Paris, and launched in 1949 Blue Seal and stops all activities in 1952. Remarié for the third time in 1854, he retired to Biarritz where he died May 11, 1958.