Herbert Levine (American, 1948-1975, 2025 –)
Herbert Levine is an iconic American luxury shoe brand, founded in 1948 in New York by Beth and Herbert LEVINE. From the very beginning, Beth serves as the brand’s creative engine while Herbert drives the
business forward. Together, they establish a label instantly recognized for its daring innovation and refined wit. In 1949 the couple purchases their first factory on the tenth floor of 31 West 31st Street in the heart of Manhattan, where they produce 400 pairs of shoes per week. Soon after, they add a second space in the Butterick Building, which became a hub for experimentation and artisanal excellence. By the mid 1950s, Herbert Levine was the sixth largest footwear manufacturer in the USA. The brand partners with top retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus, and becomes the first American shoe label carried by Harrods in London and Galeries Lafayette in Paris. During this decade Beth created some of her most iconic models including the Cyrano, Gigi Stocking, Kabuki, Under Construction, Jordan Heel, On A Roll, Peek-A-Boo boot, and the patented Spring-o-Lator mule. Innovation drives the brand’s collections, marked by technical ingenuity and cutting-edge materials like nylon and paper. In 1959, at the request of Diana VREELAND, Beth designs the Aladdin’s Lamp – a low-heeled, jewel-tipped shoe with an upturned point that is both open and closed. In 1954, the brand receives the prestigious Neiman Marcus Award. A few years later, Beth responds to a dare from Stanley Marcus by designing the No-Shoe – a radical silhouette composed only of a sole, secured to the foot with adhesive. The cultural energy of the 1960s inspired Beth to create fantastical, imaginative designs that transform Herbert Levine from a fashion label into a force at the intersection of art, culture, and innovation. She introduces convertible shoes with removable components, fully bejeweled boots and pumps (like the Theater Boots and Dorothy Pumps), and open-toe sandals lined with AstroTurf (Barefoot in the Grass). She explores postwar modernism, orientalist fantasy, space-age optimism, and pop-art playfulness. The brand becomes a favorite among First Ladies, earning Beth the title “The First Lady of Shoes.” She designs for Mamie EISENHOWER, Jackie KENNEDY, Lady Bird JOHNSON, and Patricia NIXON, among her clients were Marilyn MONROE, Marlene DIETRICH, Bette DAVIS, Joan CRAWFORD, Cher, Nancy SINATRA, Barbara STREISAND, and Shirley MACLAINE. In 1961 Beth introduced the Cinderella – the first fully invisible shoe crafted from transparent vinyl and featuring a plexiglass heel. In 1962 she patented the Stocking Boot – a surreal hybrid of pantyhose and stiletto that hugs the leg like a second skin. Beth won both the Cotton Fashion Award and the coveted Coty Award, in 1965 Saks Fifth Avenue opened Beth’s Bootery and Nancy SINATRA promoted brand for "These Boots Are Made for Walkin" ad campaign. In 1975 after nearly three decades of visionary creativity, Herbert Levine closed its doors. Almost 50 years after closing in 1975, the brand was resurrected to honor its legacy of sculptural, innovative footwear, with a relaunch officially taking shape in early 2025. Under the creative direction of Trevor HOUSTON and guided by Beth’s visionary legacy, the house focuses on shaping a distinctive footwear wardrobe that fuses modern glamour with refined craftsmanship and intelligent design.